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Journal of a Seaplane Cruise Around The World
Part Two: Europe

Tuesday, September 18

Denmark is my favorite country! Perhaps it is because we came into it on a fine day and the whole warm countryside seemed to hold out open arms. The people here are quiet in behavior; they lack the show of efficiency of the Germans, and the sternness of the Northern Scandanavians, but they are always busy, and in the morning and evening great throngs of workers fill the roads which lead to Copenhagen, as they come merrily along on their bicycles.

The airplane has been pulled out of water by the crew at the Luftmarine Station, for replacement of a loose bolt in the empennage, which I discovered the morning we left Amsterdam. Bob worked on it yesterday with the excellent assistance of men in the naval flying service.

We were deluged with reporters and with autograph books on arriving at the hotel, and were soon to discover that all of Denmark was eager to hear of our experience in their favorite colony of Greenland. Macauley had advised me to look for Svend Carstensen, the Times correspondent, and he proved to be an excellent fellow, insisting that we supper with him and his attractive wife. We were both glad to have accepted, and had a happy first evening in Copenhagen, with our ears reaching eagerly for the wealth of local news with which he supplied us. In return we helped to christen the great flagon of Bordeaux wine which he had recently brought back from France.

(I am writing this at a sidewalk table of the Frascati Cafe where Bob and I have just finished dinner. There is excellent music inside, and Rachmaninoff's prelude in C minor is helping to whisk us away from the world of noisy engines and dirty overalls.) Yesterday morning Mr. North Winship, Charge d'Affaires of the American Legation, phoned and asked us to lunch at his home. It was Bob's day on the motor so he lost out, but I joined up and we drove to a fine ocean-front residence facing toward Sweden, where a group of people, nine in all, had been brought together. Most of them were in from one of the cruising ships. It was amusingly pleasant, a sort of a cross-roads meeting of many travelers. Returning to town, I went directly to the Gronland Styreise (the Greenland Administration) and there found Mr. Oldendow, the acting chief. I wanted particularly to make some gesture of appreciation of the fine spirit in which we had been received in Greenland and, more importantly, to give a word of praise for the extraordinary measures which Denmark has taken for the preservation of the Eskimo. We had a good chat, although an interpreter would have helped much.

Today to Professor Christiansen's Neurological Clinic at the University Hospital. A superb unit with 120 beds. The Professor, who is 68 is close on to retiring but he is leaving a monument to his organizing ability. His office is decorated by photographs of men whom I know only as names in textbooks; Charcot's picture stands just behind his desk. Although he is not a surgeon, he has made excellent provision for neurological surgery as an adjunct to his well rounded clinic arid has entrusted its charge to Dr. Edward Busch. Busch is a young chap of 34 who was trained by Olivecrona, and who finished off with a short two months in the United States, spending most of it with Dandy. He is just getting under way, but has opportunity ready-made; holds the authority of his own bailiwick, which is now but eight beds, but will soon expand to twenty-two, and of course draws from the large medical wards. We made rounds in a group, with Professor Christiansen pointing particularly to the patients with tumors, of which we saw more than 20. Taking part in the visit were Dr. Mogens Fog, Dr. N.C. Borberg (and some four others whose names I cannot read in Fog's handwriting). Fog, a neurologist and physiologist, worked with Hess in Zurich (which bears interest, because I intend looking up Professor Hess when we reach Switzerland) and is counting on joining Stanley Cobb next year in Boston on a Rockefeller Fellowship to study cerebral circulation. Borberg was there because representing the state insurance patients. I should add that this hospital is supported by the State, and serves for the most difficult problems of a population of 4,000,000.

We examined x-ray equipment, which Busch has had set up for ventriculography. It was made in Stockholm to follow Olivecrona's design, and insures that the head is always centered to the film and to the tube, no matter in what position it may be rotated. It seems like an extremely useful instrument, and is certainly well built. After examining the films, which showed a hydrocephalus (150 cc), with the 3d and 4th ventricles well outlined, Busch decided on a cerebellar with a reasonable assurance that this was a true case of chronic arachnoiditis, which it proved to be.

Back at the hotel, I found that Bob had been off for a long motorcycle ride through the Zealand countryside, sitting on the rumble seat behind a young naval student whom he had met at the airdrome. This chap had just finished engineering school and was doing three months conscription duty, having elected to join with the airforce. The Danish airforce is not large, but they have good equipment and use it to the utmost. Lieutenant-Commander Petersen explained their activities: the airplanes are mostly of German Heinkel make, although some are English. The floats are either German or from Short Brothers, and the engines German or English, the latter Armstrong-Siddeley, 850 HP, two row 14 cylinder radials. They have about 20 naval and 100 army planes and put through two classes of 15 cadets each year. The Commander had spent three summers flying in Greenland, during which with others he had photographed seriatim the east coast from Farvel to 400 miles north of Scoresby Sound. This must have been a stupendous undertaking, including as it does more than 1,200 miles of coastline. It will be several years still before their 5000 odd negatives will have been converted to maps. They worked with English Eagle cameras, about 7 x 9, and shot from 4000 meters -- from open ships. He himself had flown from Denmark Bay nearly to the northern tip of Greenland, and it is not far from there around to the Thule base!

The men did a good job on the plane and have replaced two weak bolts in the enpennage. We start for Stockholm early tomorrow.

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